x-Mas' Grande Swell 09'

It was offshore everyday.. wow!
The shorebreak was perfect!
The Point was ridiculous!!

Neakanie as beautiful as always;)


Freight training sets.. Outside!
The Cove and outside Point was Bombing..

Wheww hooo~
Big winter swells grace the Oregon coast with ferocity, feathering sets, big drops and stand up barrels.., i got it four days straight, lightning in a bottle! Christmas day and Sat. brought big clean
& glassy sets ranging from 10-12 w/ the 15'+ sets. Sun-Mon dropped down a bit but it was still pumpin Mr. Sun was there to make things real sweet Monday was really nice what an end.
As big and good as it gets in Oregon.! It was cold water Indo or El cap for real..
I was going cookoo and after I stacked that full stand up barrel on Mr. Haut in the shore break I was fkn amped inside.. its not a bad feeling to be out there and have guys stratchin up the face on your wave..a little self redemption does my spirit well.. I felt really in tune the whole trip.. I told myself when I first paddled out on X-mas morning that no matter how i was feeling or what bogus s#*t swirls around in my head and all the stuff goin on in my life that I was going to go out there and surf the best that I am able too and let it go..,, and that was that I put the hammer down let it fly and i really felt I put it together, everything went unreal from wave selection and discipline to being in the right place ducking those huge outside cleanup sets, pickin off those gems and best set waves with solid guys in the lineup, well i did space hookin up my leash after I jumped in first wave board was gone.. hello!
i had a nice little swim even that was phenomenal*
Now back home to Ptld. where it snowed pretty heavy today.. thats some El'nino pattern..strange and amazing.
hangin with my baby now life is good the house is warm.. I hope i get to keep it..
miracles are bound to happen.. seems like they always do, I strive to maintain that..
dangit why didn't you talk to that girl today..? she came right in there froze and looked right at me.. how many times have I seen that look.. w/ M at the shop. i seem to meet em' when those 2 are around for some reason..? had to get that out

Nor Cal boyz win by narrow margin and take the spoils~

REPLOGLE/CRAFT REPEAT AT NELSCOTT REEF TOW-IN CLASSIC | SURFLINE.COM

Thursday 10.22.09' was the day..!
Clean 20-30' waves, light wind, occ. sun breaks and glassy conditions make for an epic event as you can sea..~ the buoys were 17' @15 sec..
Aqua and I paddled huge outside Avalanche, we were the only takers.. with my 8'4" I was under gunned, needed a bigger board 9'6" or 10'+ nonetheless it was unreal to be out there and be a part of and feel this swell, talk about.. Outside!
Even though monster rouge sets cleaned us up and washed us 1/2mile back to shore, to just navigate those huge sets and make a drop was worth it.. some of the biggest waves I ever paddled and had to withstand..
Aqua said I gave him the confidence to go out..that was inspiring!
A couple other local teams towed Scott's Reef

Agate gathering and sesh..

This top 1 is Spain
McKenna and Stella
Agate on the memorial tribute..

This past weekend after spending magic time with McKenna I headed over to the central coast to get a shot at some big swell that was coming in. As it turned out when I showed up, there was a memorial service paddle out for a local guy who passed recently. I did not know the man personally, but to be a part of that was pretty special. I knew a handful of guys who were there~ Ryan, Steve and another guy named Tim who towed me into my first legit wave at Nelscott reef a couple years ago. He shook my hand that was cool, Ryan got me Irie and Steve ended up giving me a ride back to my car after I caught my one and only monster at outside avalanche~ Big sets would roll through as we all circled up. Guys were hooting, frothing and yelling Outside! It was one of the bigger days I've had out there and pure magic from the sunshine to the waves and the flowers that floated thru the lineup. We all jumped off the rocks probably about 40 guys . Most everyone left after the ceremony which I couldn't believe since the waves were so big and consistent, but hard to get to and huge cleanup sets would clear out the lineup. It happened to me, then on my way back out which was brutal I was trying to get back to the rocks, but still hadn't got one so I was determined but didn't want to walk back to my car all the way up and around the hill so I was ready to quit and started paddling back toward the rock well low and behold here comes a bomb right at me and I'm in perfect position just amping.. I scratch take a couple strokes and boom to my feet screaming down a beauty about 15'-18' feet on the face.. did anyone get that shot? nope cause they all left, oh well~ just another still frame in my mind I will never forget..glorious day 9.26.09'

tribute to my new stick~

Puerto goes XXL

The Long brothers, Jamie Sterling, local surfers and more score giant Puerto Escondido | SURFLINE.COM

The Southern hemisphere sent huge swell to much of the west coast, however So cal, Mexico and Central American got the
best of it, one of the biggest south swells of the season. Oregon has a different swell window however because we had an intense
low pressure system that spun so close to shore we were graced with some big clean lines of our own. Agate was decent size
and clean, but is was kind of a weird mix and very powerful.. I got some as well as smacked around by the mighty Pacific.
All and all it was worth the drive plus ken dog was out on his SUP, he's always +.

BALI CHRONICLES: STAY CLOSE -Large-scale swell lights up Bali for the faithful | SURFLINE.COM

BALI CHRONICLES: STAY CLOSE -Large-scale swell lights up Bali for the faithful | SURFLINE.COM

Wooo Hooo ;}~
It would be nice to catch all the best swells at all these epic locations...where's the sponsorship? Keep dreamin... I do alright and make the best of the places around
the west coast, but an expense account to travel and surf sure be cool;)
Retreat and recharge often, simply experience the solitude of surfing for its own
sake, be in line and on time; it's a profound duet~ it will keep you coming back
& make you stay on track... take time to pack

Nor Cal Trip~

I just returned home from a 10 day trip to Nor Cal. A friend I went to HS with down there found me on FB after 20+ years, it was quite unbelievable to re-connect with someone who had a profound influence on your life so many years ago. However, it was sorta like a VH-1 where are they now behind the music moment, there was a lot of wreckage that resulted in the lives of many those we knew during that era.
I'm grateful to have made it out of the same type of susceptible things that played out in my life as well.
As it turns out our lives are incredibly parallel~ from construction to surfing to relationship challenges to victories, overall mental and physical composition to what we've been thru and overcame to where we are now in our lives and so forth~ it was an extremely edifying experience and the caper was we scored a rare run of south swell a week straight that hit that part of Nor Cal perfectly!
As Matty says," Lightning in a bottle fo' sure!~ it's about implementing +laws of attraction, making every effort to align yourself with the universe and making the best of and appreciating what you've got!
You are here right now use what you've been given to make a positive difference;)
Believe you are capable...

Year to date~

Agate in Early April~ gorgeous!
PC back in Jan. during epic run of swell.. Jerry Lopez was out here, got a moment to rap w/ him in the lineup..

Update~

Well, watz been hapnin? Hmmm these are crazy times we are livin in. I do not like the current state of affairs and feel like I am just patchin holes in this ship of mine. Anyhow, spirits are good and I am relatively resolved about things. Always makin the best of it no matter what happens, just lettin go... Juicin alot again which has been great. As far as surfing goes we knew this last swell was going to be epic and it certainly was all that! The guy who I have been working on towing with met me down the central coast. We launched @ South beach since we didn't have a sand dolly. It was a little schetcy cause I didn't think they were going to let us launch on account of how big it was, usually they shut the bar over 6' and it was like 13' @18. It was kinda weird nobody was around. We got outside to green water and it is just macking! Big, offshore, well groomed sets just bombing! Don had this retro board with these hokie straps-some homemade special, not a well-suited tow board by today's or any standards really. I advised him against it, but he said he had to try it. So I towed him around for a few then he said ok so I whipped him into a sikk 1 and he held on a little too long and that board couldn't handle the speed, anyhow that episode broke his ankle. So we were basically done at that point. I cruised up to LC and watched those guys tow for a while but was pretty bummed about that whole deal I just wanted to go surf up North, everything from Agate to PC was maxed out and w/o the ski getting outside wasn't going to happen. Don ended up going home and I was left w/o a partner. So I resorted to paddling which I prefer anyhow so it all worked out! I ended up scoring some dredgers at PC. Jerry Lopez was even in the lineup. There was only a few of us out; pretty cool group. The next day the seas cleaned up and was 6-8' w/ the occasional 10+ footers coming thru. Seaside was sikk ~ crazy lefts just reeling, big and clean just like you want it. So I ended up salvaging the weekend.... just like everything else in my life ~its a series of recovery;)