Tuesday, June 23, 2009

BALI CHRONICLES: STAY CLOSE -Large-scale swell lights up Bali for the faithful | SURFLINE.COM

BALI CHRONICLES: STAY CLOSE -Large-scale swell lights up Bali for the faithful | SURFLINE.COM

Wooo Hooo ;}~
It would be nice to catch all the best swells at all these epic locations...where's the sponsorship? Keep dreamin... I do alright and make the best of the places around
the west coast, but an expense account to travel and surf sure be cool;)
Retreat and recharge often, simply experience the solitude of surfing for its own
sake, be in line and on time; it's a profound duet~ it will keep you coming back
& make you stay on track... take time to pack

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Nor Cal Trip~











I just returned home from a 10 day trip to Nor Cal. A friend I went to HS with down there found me on FB after 20+ years, it was quite unbelievable to re-connect with someone who had a profound influence on your life so many years ago. However, it was sorta like a VH-1 where are they now behind the music moment, there was a lot of wreckage that resulted in the lives of many those we knew during that era.
I'm grateful to have made it out of the same type of susceptible things that played out in my life as well.
As it turns out our lives are incredibly parallel~ from construction to surfing to relationship challenges to victories, overall mental and physical composition to what we've been thru and overcame to where we are now in our lives and so forth~ it was an extremely edifying experience and the caper was we scored a rare run of south swell a week straight that hit that part of Nor Cal perfectly!
As Matty says," Lightning in a bottle fo' sure!~ it's about implementing +laws of attraction, making every effort to align yourself with the universe and making the best of and appreciating what you've got!
You are here right now use what you've been given to make a positive difference;)
Believe you are capable...

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Year to date~


Agate in Early April~ gorgeous!
PC back in Jan. during epic run of swell.. Jerry Lopez was out here, got a moment to rap w/ him in the lineup..