Sunday, March 8, 2009

Update~




Well, watz been hapnin? Hmmm these are crazy times we are livin in. I do not like the current state of affairs and feel like I am just patchin holes in this ship of mine. Anyhow, spirits are good and I am relatively resolved about things. Always makin the best of it no matter what happens, just lettin go... Juicin alot again which has been great. As far as surfing goes we knew this last swell was going to be epic and it certainly was all that! The guy who I have been working on towing with met me down the central coast. We launched @ South beach since we didn't have a sand dolly. It was a little schetcy cause I didn't think they were going to let us launch on account of how big it was, usually they shut the bar over 6' and it was like 13' @18. It was kinda weird nobody was around. We got outside to green water and it is just macking! Big, offshore, well groomed sets just bombing! Don had this retro board with these hokie straps-some homemade special, not a well-suited tow board by today's or any standards really. I advised him against it, but he said he had to try it. So I towed him around for a few then he said ok so I whipped him into a sikk 1 and he held on a little too long and that board couldn't handle the speed, anyhow that episode broke his ankle. So we were basically done at that point. I cruised up to LC and watched those guys tow for a while but was pretty bummed about that whole deal I just wanted to go surf up North, everything from Agate to PC was maxed out and w/o the ski getting outside wasn't going to happen. Don ended up going home and I was left w/o a partner. So I resorted to paddling which I prefer anyhow so it all worked out! I ended up scoring some dredgers at PC. Jerry Lopez was even in the lineup. There was only a few of us out; pretty cool group. The next day the seas cleaned up and was 6-8' w/ the occasional 10+ footers coming thru. Seaside was sikk ~ crazy lefts just reeling, big and clean just like you want it. So I ended up salvaging the weekend.... just like everything else in my life ~its a series of recovery;)

No comments: