Agate gathering and sesh..

This top 1 is Spain
McKenna and Stella
Agate on the memorial tribute..

This past weekend after spending magic time with McKenna I headed over to the central coast to get a shot at some big swell that was coming in. As it turned out when I showed up, there was a memorial service paddle out for a local guy who passed recently. I did not know the man personally, but to be a part of that was pretty special. I knew a handful of guys who were there~ Ryan, Steve and another guy named Tim who towed me into my first legit wave at Nelscott reef a couple years ago. He shook my hand that was cool, Ryan got me Irie and Steve ended up giving me a ride back to my car after I caught my one and only monster at outside avalanche~ Big sets would roll through as we all circled up. Guys were hooting, frothing and yelling Outside! It was one of the bigger days I've had out there and pure magic from the sunshine to the waves and the flowers that floated thru the lineup. We all jumped off the rocks probably about 40 guys . Most everyone left after the ceremony which I couldn't believe since the waves were so big and consistent, but hard to get to and huge cleanup sets would clear out the lineup. It happened to me, then on my way back out which was brutal I was trying to get back to the rocks, but still hadn't got one so I was determined but didn't want to walk back to my car all the way up and around the hill so I was ready to quit and started paddling back toward the rock well low and behold here comes a bomb right at me and I'm in perfect position just amping.. I scratch take a couple strokes and boom to my feet screaming down a beauty about 15'-18' feet on the face.. did anyone get that shot? nope cause they all left, oh well~ just another still frame in my mind I will never forget..glorious day 9.26.09'